Modest mod / max power for Crosman 2240

Started by Caretaker, July 23, 2011, 12:45:29 AM

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Caretaker

I have just acquired a standard Crosman 2240.
I have never had one before so it's all a bit new to me, especially all the modifying.
Just ordered a front sight (it was missing) and a carbine stock.
I don't want to lengthen the barrel or go to great lengths modifying it but I would like to run the gun at it's highest possible power setting.
From what I have been reading (if I have got it right) if I bought a Brass Power Adjuster and a Power Hammer Spring with Brass Guide, this would make my gun run at it's maxim power.
Am I right?
Would I need to do anything else to ensure the gun does not self destruct?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

arkmaker †

It's a good start, but I would take it just one step (two actually) further and get a Steel Breech and either an extended probe or flow-thru bolt. If you don't want to go into the vavle work or add barrel length, these, in addition to what you've stated will max you out. Won;t be much, but still gonna be a nice shooter for ya!  :-*

Rich
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22

Caretaker

#2
Thanks for the information.
It appears my breech is the older type and, if I have got it right, the steel replacements have a hole in a different position.
Therefore, I assume I would have to find some way of getting it modified so it fitted?

1377x

steel breeches with the old screw location still available from crosman when in stock
closed mouths dont get fed

eric

your gas tube might have both screw locations drilled and tapped to except either the new or old style breech
TOO many freaks and NOT enough circuses

mr007s

The tubes I have in my possession, 2240, 2300, 2350b all have both locations tapped. Be aware that a hammer that is notched will be needed if you change to the new location as the screw will hit if you use the old hammer.

Caretaker

#6
Thanks guys, great information.
Possibly needing a new hammer as well is good to know, seems my simple mod is not so simple after all.
The standard stock I ordered came today and I am very please with it, as it is, so perhaps I will leave it for now.
Thanks again.
Steve

kada82

i would also get a lighter valve spring from gmac i fitted one of these to my 2250 and gave a modest increase about 0.5ftlb so you should see a gain on yours and there are cheap about 3.50 i think.

Caretaker

Just to update this thread.
Brass power adjuster and power hammer spring with brass guide have been fitted.
I ordered a steel breech and it finally arrived (it was out of stock) hole is in the same place as the old one, so shouldn't need to notch the hammer.
I ordered seals but have had to re-order them as I made a mistake and ordered 22.
I managed to get a valve and the chap I got it from modified it for me.
As soon as the new seals arrive I will fit the modified valve and new breech.

quickster47 †

Was wondering if you had stopped by and then dropped out.  Great to see you are still around and good to see you are making progress with your gun.  Have you had a chance to shoot it after doing any of the mods?

Carl

I've never wanted something so useless in my life.
In Omnia Paratus
1947-05-19 - 2016-07-14 †

Caretaker

#10
Not test fired it yet.
But tonight I had a bit of a disaster.
Tried to remove the breech screw, pushed the allen key well in (as far as it would go) and it slips around  :D
So the breech change has been postponed until I can figure out how to get the screw out  :(

Edit:
Just read about this on another thread.
I will grid the allen key down and try again in case it's the key.
Last resort is to slot the screw, which means destroying the plastic breech.
Not what I had planned but a way to resolve it none the less.

quickster47 †

Quote from: Caretaker on September 30, 2011, 10:41:49 PM
Last resort is to slot the screw, which means destroying the plastic breech.
Not what I had planned but a way to resolve it none the less.

If you need a plastic breech let me know.  I have a spare and it's yours if you pay the shipping.

Carl

I've never wanted something so useless in my life.
In Omnia Paratus
1947-05-19 - 2016-07-14 †

JEBert

#12
Careteker,
If you have a spare screw, you can save the breech and destroy the screw instead.  You should be able to carefully drill the center of the little Allen head screw with a 1/8" drill bit and when the drill reaches the shank of the screw, the head will pop off.  After you get the breech off, grab the screw with a pair of pliers and turn it out.  If you need a spare screw, I can post one in the mail to you.  Either like the factory one or a slotted one.  Let me know.
Cheers,
Jerry
Jerry
NRA Life Member
USAF Veteran 1973-1977 (43151E) Sgt (E-4)


LeadHead22

Jerry's right.  I have had to drill out the screw in the same fashion and was all stressed about it.  Once the top of the screw seperated and released the breech I breathed out a sigh of relief.  I replaced the original screw with a deeply slotted one.  Easy fix.