1377 first mod - trigger.

Started by Sweller, August 30, 2020, 10:28:30 PM

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Sweller

#30
I just did order a hammer from Charlie Mellon. While I was pondering the installation of it, it dawned on me that there are two pins associated with it:

CH2009-023 Pin, Acetal
1700-015 Hammer Pin

Are both pins reusable from the stock hammer in my 1377? Are they pressed in? Are they boogers to remove?

EDIT: The 1377 does not have an Acetal pin.

The 1377 does have a hammer pin, but it's a different part number than the one above which is for a 1701P. Is that going to be a problem?
Stephen Weller
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rangerfredbob

It is not pressed in, it comes right out once you slide the hammer back to the rear end of the slot in the tube, otherwise the hammer wouldn't come out of the tube...
Near McMinnville, Oregon

Have me many an airgun :), count is 102 now...

Sweller

Thanks.

I hope you're safe in McMinnville.
Stephen Weller
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rangerfredbob

Yeah, doing good, the smoke finally went away today since it rained last night, I'm a fair distance from any of the big fires, I do know several people in the Stayton area that got hit hard, only one lost their house. This year has been stupid, I'm over it...
Near McMinnville, Oregon

Have me many an airgun :), count is 102 now...

Sweller

Good to hear. Our SIL is from Portland. His folks live on the cost, so we keep a watchful eye.

Stay safe. Stay healthy.
Stephen Weller
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Sweller

I received and installed the parts that make up the 1701P trigger group. All is good if not just a tiny bit touchy. At least, and I'm happy to say, I have a proper two stage trigger on my 1377. It's surprising how a little turn of a grub screw can make such a huge difference.

Is there a written procedure that a buffoon (me) can follow that will allow me to always get back to a known starting point, before I lock it all down with Locktite?
Stephen Weller
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arkmaker †

#36
As I remember, there are no actual written instructions from Crosman. What I did, is find the drawing of the trigger assembly. Somewhere on this forum there is a picture and a drawing of insides with the side cover off.


By understanding the relationship between all the moving parts, by looking at this drawing, I was able to adjust everything just how I like it.


Still, it sure is easy to move thing more/less than wanted and even end up with a single stage trigger.


Once you do have it set and sure that's where you want it, take a drop of blue loc-tire on a toothpick and place on both screws. They may well move without it. Adjustments are still okay with "blue". Just redo if needed.
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22

arkmaker †

I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22

Sweller

Yes, thanks. That was just one of my reference pics. From looking at that, I just kind of started with both A and B grub screws set by eye at midway and went from there.
Stephen Weller
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7624452

It's in the 1701P owner's manual.   :)
Stranded in California.

Sweller

Thanks. I've read it, re-read it, and read it again. That was what I used to put it together. Problem is, it doesn't suggest a starting point for the adjustments.

I'm probably just being too picky or overly dense.
Stephen Weller
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arkmaker †

Only 1/4 turn of the Allen key each move you make. Alternate between clockwise and counter clockwise one screw at a time until you understand exactly what you action is doing to the travel of each stage.


If 1/4 turn doesn't get you able to feel the difference in the 1st and 2nd pull lengths then open up to 1/2 turns.


You'll get it! Just takes a little getting used to. And then if you ever have to start over for some reason, you will go through all this again 😂 At least go me it is not something I hold in my memory.


That's why I said that once you get it just right... Loc-tite
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22


KevinP

Kevin
Albany, New York

arkmaker †

This is great info:

Quote from Another Airgun Blog
"With the grip frame installed, the window made it easy to adjust the two stages perfectly.  The front screw adjusts the length of the first stage.  The rear screw, the second stage.   I wanted the first stage relatively long and with a solid "wall" when it transitioned to the second stage, then just a bit more pressure (but no perceived travel) to fire.  To do that, I screwed the front screw in further than the rear and played with the adjustments while cocking and dry firing the pistol.  Backing out the link spring tension adjuster also let me dial in the feel.  When finished, I adjusted the trigger stop so the trigger stopped cold at the moment of firing."


Love the access hole too, but I'm not going back into mine again unless absolutely needed! 😮
I Am A Natural Mad Air Gunner  -  Full Of Hot Air & Ready To Expel It Quickly!

114 Rifle, 2240XL Pistol, 1861 Shiloh Pistol, 357 Pistols, Titan GP Rifle, PM66 Rifle, 2400KT .177 LW Carbine, CZ T200 Rifle, Benjamin Discovery .177 Rifle, Hammerli 850 Air Magnum in .22