Topic: 1322 - Ph 2 - New Parts Questions - Refinishing

[Underdog]

I've finally got the new parts for my old 1322- an adjustable sear spring, a trigger shoe, a new transfer port and gasket, and a new RP valve from Alchemy Airwerks.

I've already spent waaaaayyy too much on this gun at this point, so anything further needs to be budget conscious, unless I can use supplies on another gun, for instance; bluing.

Here are some questions...

1) I've deburred and polished the aluminum grip frame - the casting seam was pretty rough, and the rear bolt boss kept rubbing blisters on the web between my thumb and forefinger.
What do I use to refinish this with? AlumaBlack? Paint?
2) I've picked up a bottle of Super Blue to re-blue the barrel, steel breech (freebie from Eric  ), and pump tube, and every other steel part that needs it, like screws and trigger. Good idea or not?
3) The hole in the barrel and the hole in the steel breech don't line up correctly even though the barrel is well seated. Push it back out until it lines up? Or remove completely and fabricate a custom washer to get it lined back up?
4) The hole in the pump tube and the hole in the valve don't line up either. Is there any fix for this? I have a new valve from Alchemy, and don't know how the new hole lines up yet.
5) I got a new transfer port from Alchemy - the bottom end gets the gasket, but which is the bottom end? The long or short end?
4) I also got an adjustable sear/trigger spring- I'm told that I have to pump enough to determine at what point the valve won't dump all the air. How do I tell if there's still air in the chamber after firing? Put paper in front of the barrel the 2nd time cock and fire?

Thanks for any input.

[mr007s]

#1- I have had success with painting. Prep is key in getting a good outcome. I were rubber gloves and clean parts to be painter with denatured alcohol. Warm the part in an oven to around 125 degrees. Hang the frame with a string or small wire and spray thin coats , letting each dry before applying the next one. May want to finish with last coat with clear sealer.
 Have you considered hydro-dipping?

#2- I have never had luck with any kind of cold bluing. For the screws I have seen sets for sale that were all stainless, I would look into that, 

#4- Pump 10 times and pull the trigger, cock again but do not pump and pull the trigger. If air was still in the valve you will here it, if not you will here the hammer striking the valve stem.

[Rezarf]

I too have had better luck with painting - it seems the Crosman metals are steel that blues easily (although barrels appear  hardened, according to my machinist). I routinely use automotive primer after sanding and using steel wool, giving it as smooth a surface as possible before painting. Bluing seems uneven, although I have had excellent results with other firearms using cold blue.