I have read the great threads on the problems and frustration with this pistol and appreciate all the great info. I was able to get a new one for less than $60 so I read all I could first before deciding to throw even that amount away.
I saw / held the gun and must say that it seems solid and at least held together. Doesn't look too bad, either.
The first thing I noticed is the rear sight IS an Industry brand sight. No doubt about it. I have re-finished and whittled on a couple already, so I know how bad they suck out of the box. I got one of the original ones. Fooled me once. :o The finish is pitiful and if you fix all that, then they still require a taller front sight pin. Sorry, Archer but they truly suck. Even the new ones that are now "made to fit Crosman" blah blah blah. Yeah, I got one of them too thinking they had fixed the geometry. WRONG! Fooled me TWICE! Shame on me. Three times, actually because I got one of the horrid POS side-cocking things, too.
My minimal experience with break barrels in general is that if the rear sight is behind the break (pistols, usually) and the front is in front of it (duh), then repeatability is slung to the curb like a flat six-pack. So, my plan is simply to remove the Rear sight completely.
I also read all the threads about the problems with the cocking sleeve on the muzzle end. I just cocked it several times without is and have no trouble with it at all. My plan there is to remove the entire front sight and the cocking sleeve. I believe I can come up with something up there. ;)
I am going to put a good laser on the tiny strip of barrel real estate that is forward of the break... and then attach a cheap scope to be used only as a spotter / magnifier for the laser. If the scope had no crosshairs it would suit me just fine.
So the laser should stay true to the barrel. All the problems with scope mount creep, rear sight movement and muzzle end affects should be rendered "who cares". I will set it up for 20 meters. I will report the results.
Now, how to get a stock on this thing? Hmmm... what ID is that main tube? :o :-*
I will follow up with pics and results at a later date.
Sounds like you have a solid plan. :-*
Here is the beginning (and the plan).
1. Removed the stock sights.
(By the way, there is no need to warm up the front sight before tapping it off with a mallet and rod.)
2. Quickly cut off the trigger guard (will pretty it up some later).
3. Installed two finger trigger shoe. Perfect fit to the wide trigger blade. That shoe has three (3) grubs, so is very solidly installed.
4. Installed red laser to barrel with barrel mount. Checked stroke. Had to move it forward. No problems. I like the button on/off type personally so no cord or pressure switch to fool with.
5. Staged the powder coated aluminum brake (that already has two grub screws) for photo. I need to re-bore the first inch to 9/16" for this barrel before I attach it. That brake will make an excellent break assist handle as well.
6. Confirmed my suspicion that Crosman does not have a drawing posted for this gun yet. >:( I need to see what all is going on the other side of the main tube rear plate / cap. I see that it is pinned, so that may mean it has serious business just behind that metal plate. I am hoping to modify and attach a Tippman adapter so it can have a wire stock.
7. The small scopes I have (several... 4x15, 4x20, 3-7 x 20) optically are just fine, but do not look good aesthetically on this somewhat massive thing that is getting bigger... so it will get a 3-9 x 40 (last thing after all the other stuff gets done).
8. There is a very good chance that this will get hydrographed. Just because... :-\
Posted wrong place... ;)
Cool project. :-* :-*
The power is there on this shooter and it looks like you are addressing accuracy. Can't wait to see the target!! If that looks good, Crosman may call and offer you a job! How does the crown look?
I saw one of these in a store and was tempted.
I think I'll hold off. I am curious about the noise level. Crosman promotes the system as quieter.
How does the sound level compare?
Quote from: arkmaker on September 29, 2013, 02:57:18 PM
Cool project. :-* :-*
The power is there on this shooter and it looks like you are addressing accuracy. Can't wait to see the target!! If that looks good, Crosman may call and offer you a job! How does the crown look?
The crown looks like all Crosman's should look. I am SERIOUS! I will snap a pic just to show you.
I am contemplating opening up the front bore of the brake to .50 for a more "dangerous" look. ;) I just did this on a project brake and it looks very good to me. It looks good with the barrel end backed in from the .50 ledge... also even with the ledge... and quite interesting even (flush) with the face. Of course on this one the stripper holes would be covered up by any of those three alternate possibilities. Yes, I like to play gun dress up! :-[ ;)
Quote from: redpcx on September 29, 2013, 03:32:18 PM
I saw one of these in a store and was tempted.
I think I'll hold off. I am curious about the noise level. Crosman promotes the system as quieter.
How does the sound level compare?
There is no doubt that it is quieter than either a
stock 2240 or 13xx. I have only fired about a dozen rounds through so far. It says in the Owner's manual (bilingual sheet of paper) "There may be up to a 250 shot break in period. During this period accuracy may be inconsistent and your gun may seem loud. This will improve as the gun breaks in." May be something to that (or why say it?).
Uh Oh!!! It ALSO says this gun was made for crosman pellets and using other than Crosman pellets may cause damage and/or VOID THE WARRANTY! OMG. What would I DO without my WARRANTY? (says the guy that cut the trigger guard off within one hour of ownership). ;)
Nice beginnings Dave, you will make a shooter out of that $55 pistol, I'm sure of that :-*
QuoteWhat would I DO without my WARRANTY? (says the guy that cut the trigger guard off within one hour of ownership). ;)
;D ;D ;D
Nice project Dave, keep us posted :-*
sounds like a fun project. you are correct about alot of pressure on the back plate or trigger assemblys that hold the spring or gas piston in. aspring compressor is highly recommended for safty. i have seen 1 persons face after a spring got away from them not pretty. springers/np guns are alot of fun to tinker with. good luck.
Great project Dave. The two finger trigger shoe is a great idea. If I'm shooting mine for any length of time I have to change fingers as my "trigger" finger gets worn out.
Archer just put up a break for this gun. I'm thinking about it. $20. or so and its supposed to be glued on.
If you figure out a stock for this your gonna have a lot of friends wanting to know how.
I get best accuracy with the artillery type hold. Just putting my hand between the bag & gun makes a difference. Big E seems to have success with a bipod.
I did dispatch a chipmunk yesterday at about 20 yards so it does have some power.
Good luck......
Quote from: BillK on September 30, 2013, 04:50:38 AM
Great project Dave. The two finger trigger shoe is a great idea. If I'm shooting mine for any length of time I have to change fingers as my "trigger" finger gets worn out.
Archer just put up a break for this gun. I'm thinking about it. $20. or so and its supposed to be glued on.
If you figure out a stock for this your gonna have a lot of friends wanting to know how.
I get best accuracy with the artillery type hold. Just putting my hand between the bag & gun makes a difference. Big E seems to have success with a bipod.
I did dispatch a chipmunk yesterday at about 20 yards so it does have some power.
Good luck......
It has a very heavy 2 stage trigger (like 7 lbs out of the box). For anyone messing with one of these, read the posts on this forum, but also go read all 7 parts of PA's blog on this gun. The blogger named BB.
Not being cocky, but there is no if about the stock. If I can't tap into that end plate, then the price of poker goes up but it will happen. I would love to see if there is any clearance directly behind it... and also know the thickness of the plate itself.
As to style, I admit to being torn between the Tippman and the 13xx wire stock versions. Neither has installation advantages, since whatever is done will have to be fabricated and attached.
Hell, something to think about... good times! :)
Quote from: onebaddj on September 29, 2013, 09:45:20 PM
sounds like a fun project. you are correct about alot of pressure on the back plate or trigger assemblys that hold the spring or gas piston in. aspring compressor is highly recommended for safty. i have seen 1 persons face after a spring got away from them not pretty. springers/np guns are alot of fun to tinker with. good luck.
Is there a lot of pretension on it before cocking? Is the NP in a relaxed state? or not? Anybody know FOR SURE? If you say it is and it's NOT, then I'll have to add you to my bucket list! :o ;D
There are also a couple of trigger mod Youtube videos and references to them in PA reviews. Supposedly putting a ring or small washer in between the slotted trigger where the pin and e-clip go... decreases the amount of pull to release the sear. I will do this as well. It is the type of thing that can be fine tuned or taken off with no harm done if it is bogus.
As arkmaker said, this IS a cool powerplant. The cocking effort of 25# makes it an all day plinker.
Dang! This has me drooling over the magnum .25 caliber 30 fpe big brother rifles. :-[ :-X
If it's anything like My Nitro Venom there is some preload on the rear cap. I just used a bar clamp as it only came out an inch or so. But there isn't much of any room behind the cap on the Venom. I looked at taking the piston out of the pistol and couldn't figure out how to do it. Thought I'd wait for a diagram or pics. I'm real good with pictures. ;)
My husband bought an NP pistol. I hate it. The rear sight keeps moving. I'm blind as a bat, so that is a problem for me. The cocking of the gun is a problem too. I own break barrel guns, but that one is a pain in the @$$. I don't shoot it. I'll save my money for another 2240 ;)
Dave, do you have a link to any trigger mods?
I put in a longer adjuster screw & while it shortened the travel it did nothing for the pull weight.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=52220.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=52220.0)
stock can be done
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3flBjf6SHs#]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3flBjf6SHs#[/url]
Quote from: BillK on September 30, 2013, 04:21:55 PM
Dave, do you have a link to any trigger mods?
I put in a longer adjuster screw & while it shortened the travel it did nothing for the pull weight.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=52220.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=52220.0)
Sorry, just getting back to this thread. The mod is simple. The Youtube videos (two) are lame. One has the guy using a ring off a key-chain (it works, though) and the other has the guy cussing the whole time. Watch them if you want, but here is the gist of it.
Take the pin out of the trigger. Slide a small metal washer with the same ID as the pin (or very close) into the split / channel in the rear of the trigger... and then put the pin back through the center of the washer.... re-install the circlip.
If it is too sensitive, get a smaller OD washer or file/grind that one smaller. If it is not sensitive enough, go larger. Making this pin/shaft ride higher removes the trigger draw length (travel) required to fire. My understanding is that if you go too large it will fire when you look at it! :o
just came upon this thread while looking for trigger fixes for my np pistol.if anyone is interested what i did was remove my adjuster screw and install it from the back side with loctite and adjusted it with the least travel i could before it engaged the bear trap safety then i polished the head of the screw which now contacts the trigger i also cleaned up the sears a little for a smoother trigger. the trigger spring is integrated into the safety spring so i had a real problem trying to bend the spring to reduce pull weight eventually ruining the spring so what i came up with was a safety pin cut to fit to replace stock pin i did find one that reduced trigger pull and still made the safety usable i still have a heavy pull but it is a lot shorter,lighter and smoother than stock and for me was the best solution i found so far...i got about 1k rounds through it and its starting to shoot pretty damn good with open stock sites (tightend up some) it out shoots me....hope this is helpful to someone.....good luck
Hay Davio! Did you ever finish this project? ??? I use mine for a paper weight. :P :P
I put a red laser on it and it is my back porch rocking chair weapon of choice. :)
Quote from: Davio on August 04, 2015, 06:58:55 AM
I put a red laser on it and it is my back porch rocking chair weapon of choice. :)
:) cool beans .. :-*