... Only if I needed to paint something I'd never touch again. Waste of 6 bucks.
I took my grips off soaked in a water\TSP\bleech mix, scrubbed as much OFF as I could. It never completely dried and constantly felt like wet glue on my grips. Some spots were much worse than others, but that's probably due to not having to grab there. lol
I put the Rustoleum - Truck bed coating (black spray can) on grips\pump handle, looks far better, dries quick and has great traction. (I read about using the rustoleum in here somewhere.)
May cost a few buck more, sure is worth it.
:-*
(also added my pill\pellet holder in the pic, it was $1 at the drug store and holds about 90 wadcutters.)
Sad for your paint trouble but glad you have it fixed. Great idea with the pill fob, will look for them when I go for my next pickup at the pharmacy :-*
I was looking at the fusion paints but didn't go with it. Thanks for the input.
Krylon fusion paint is really good stuff. Painting plastic can be tricky at times. Proper prep is a must for adhesion to occur. How did you go about using the Krylon? The bedliner looks great by the way. One can will go a LONG way.
Quote from: BigErn on August 29, 2012, 03:44:21 PM
Krylon fusion paint is really good stuff. Painting plastic can be tricky at times. Proper prep is a must for adhesion to occur. How did you go about using the Krylon? The bedliner looks great by the way. One can will go a LONG way.
maybe prep, I used an SOS pad to scrub 'em up, cleaned, dried and painted. Maybe too humid when applied, or maybe too many coats... I don't know, but that stuff just did not want to dry completely in the 7 days (heck I gave it over two weeks)
Anyway, am happy the bedliner went on easy and dried quick, should make touch-ups a snap.
The pill fob works good, I might see if they have one with a pop-up top.
Quote from: BigErn on August 29, 2012, 03:44:21 PM
Krylon fusion paint is really good stuff. Painting plastic can be tricky at times. Proper prep is a must for adhesion to occur. How did you go about using the Krylon? The bedliner looks great by the way. One can will go a LONG way.
X1 You really need to read the directions 24 hrs between coats is a must.
Mike
i have followed the directions on the fushion paint and my prep was done correctly
it was always soft and didnt stick to vinyl like it should .you can tell when you shake the can the stuff is thick
used truck bedliner almost 3 years ago on some grips and pumparm all i can say is that stuff is durable after a lot of punishment its still holding
X3 on the krylon never completely drying. I was gonna suggest to ScotTex that it might be the humidity in our part of the world causing problems but 13xx is in Minnesota with the same problems. I have heard others say the same but don't know where they are.
Rust-oleum Truck Bed Coating works perfectly for me.
Cheers,
Humidity is a serious factor when painting, as is time between coats.
I start my first coat, sometimes called a "tack" coat by getting all of the hard to reach/nooks and crannies first then a light coat all over. The tack coat gives the next light coat something to stick to. The next coat (3rd) is what I call the "wet" coat. Most times this will be enough unless you have some trash (sometimes a bug!) get in the paint and have to sand it out.
when it has not hardened or dried after two years i know thats what its going to be soft.yes two later after i used the paint keep in mind this in used in a vehicle which turns its self into a heat booth during the summer months
there is way to many complaints to be an isolated incident
I swear by Rustoleum because it always works and they even make a version that doesn't need primer.
From my limited use of the Krylons, yes, not so great results.
Despite the instructions on the can, any volatiles coming in contact with plastics, vinyls etc, require a fully sealed surface so as NOT to act like a solvent and create more volatiles from the plastic surfaces. Drying is a generic term, it really is the release of volatiles to the point that just enough is retained in the paint film for flexibility, but no more.
Some plastics are worse than others, my last use of Krylon Plastic paint did not work out and I let it "dry" between coats for days. Gooey, gummy mess.
I agree with chong about humidity and time between coats, heavyness of coats, etc. I haven't used the Fusion paints but I've heard about good results from others. I have been using the Rustolium line with great results so far. I use DupliColor paints too sometimes. I really like the camo paints from Rustolium lately. For plastics I use Rustolium plastic primer first. After it dries there is no need to sand before you paint.
flexibility an overlooked by-product
I do notice fusion works on new stuff Better then things that have been handled.
Quote from: BigErn on August 29, 2012, 07:57:48 PM
I agree with chong about humidity and time between coats, heavyness of coats, etc. I haven't used the Fusion paints but I've heard about good results from others. I have been using the Rustolium line with great results so far. I use DupliColor paints too sometimes. I really like the camo paints from Rustolium lately. For plastics I use Rustolium plastic primer first. After it dries there is no need to sand before you paint.
I've not tried the Rustolium brand in a long time, Duplicoloe is not available in my area ( I live in the boonies) and I do not like the Fusion stuff.
I'm an ol' timer, preferring lacquer based paints for there ease of use and easy to fix mistakes. Besides, it just smells good ;D
I used krylon camo paint. it felt odd for a week but I got used to it eventually. it wears with constant use, so be careful how you used the gun. my 1322 carbine needs a touch up on the stock. its got chips missing around the handling parts and stock edges.
So I'm seeing the tackiness thing too, after 5 days of "drying." Do you guys think a clear coat would dry on top of this or just stay the same?
Quote from: nuevo_eph on September 29, 2012, 12:52:26 AM
So I'm seeing the tackiness thing too, after 5 days of "drying." Do you guys think a clear coat would dry on top of this or just stay the same?
It might take a few more days to cure but if the label says you can top coat with clear than go for it. I have been using Rustolium paints and they dry very quickly. Their camo paint is fantastic.
I figure what the hey since it will be a lot less work than stripping anything. This is on both a wooden grip and the plastic stock.
Yep, that worked. So I installed the steel breech and 18 inch barrel and now I am feeling some puffs around the pistol grip. Grr! Off to do research on that as I am pretty sure I remember feeling nothing prior to these mods.
Maybe I don't have the barrel seated right or the breech tightened enough?
Edit: I realized the transfer port fell out and I think I lost the seal. That should do it. Nothing like learning through mistakes!
I just used a bleach\water mix with a strong brush to rub off the gummy paint, let it dry then painted with the rustoleum.
The air leak does sound like you reinstalled something wrong.
Quote from: ScotTex on September 29, 2012, 09:55:36 AM
I just used a bleach\water mix with a strong brush to rub off the gummy paint, let it dry then painted with the rustoleum.
The air leak does sound like you reinstalled something wrong.
TSP - Tri-Sodium Phosphate
Works really good too. :-*
did you use the metal transfer port and rubber gasket seal? when you put it back together
is the breech flush to the tube?
pics might help
Chemistry 101:
The reason that so many paints remain tacky or gummy feeling is their volatile content (solvents and petro stuff).
Depending on the plastic being painted, the volatiles draw more volatiles out of the plastic, for a long time in some cases.
The better plastic only paints should be near zero petro based, residual volatiles when dry. A matte clear coat is prob the best way to finish the surface after complete drying of the color coats.
I have even had the truck bed liner stuff be tacky for more than a week.
"(also added my pill\pellet holder in the pic, it was $1 at the drug store and holds about 90 wadcutters.)"
Nice. Mine doesn't get used for pellets though; rather it did. Couple of Tylenol and some anti-seizure pills instead.
Update - I found the port and used some teflon tape to simulate a seal while a replacement comes in the mail. It works very well, imo.
The stock feels a little tacky still, I am going to try a bit more of a clear coat when I get a chance. Also, it is tacky on both the wooden grip and the plastic stock.