Well I just learned something today, I did the trigger mod where you squish the trigger spring between your fingers to give it a lighter trigger. When I cocked the gun on safety all went well but when I pulled the bolt back when it wasn't on safety it would not cock. I stretched the spring back out again and it would cock either way. I am learning!
quashing the spring helps when you use a spent 22 case but tbh swap the heavy spring for a lighter one and use a guide
with all trigger mods ensure you bump test it so it won't fire if knocked
these are what I sell in the UK
Yep, A spent .22lr casing helps keep the spring from walking / binding off the edge the sear.
;)
I've got a super sear coming from Steve, would the .22 empty case still be a good idea with that?
Nope, not needed on the Supersear.
It has a tab that the spring seats around.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3K6uK1ux0s0/UT_KcByAoeI/AAAAAAAABgk/WpMvOpiuAAA/s1600/SuperSear-2-web-high.jpg)
Compressing the spring still helps. Be sure to "Bump Test" it and if you go too far just stretch it a bit..
Yeah, I got washers like that from Davio, they help.
I have found this to really improve the feel. Note the re-contoured end running on the polished clevis pin spring guide.
Oh now that's a new one to me Craig.. THANKS!
I did something a bit similar but in the top of the guide
I csk it to allow the bottom of the sear to roll into it as the sear lowers at the rear
I also looked at fitting a roller but imo it wouldn't improve it by enough to warrant doing it
often when you work out the cost of aftermarket trigger mods your better off buying the 1701 frame especially if you can order direct from Crosman
Hey Scott, I'm a hoosier too ( Nortwest Indiana) and one of my sons has a lab named Hoosier!
Stinking COOL Jim.
I am North East corner with 28 acres to shoot / hunt.
50 yards and less is always mowed in the backyard. Can stretch it out to +100 yrds with some notice. Let me know if you are in the neighborhood!
Here is what I have if you are interested...
on top of the pistols in my sig are therse Rifles.
Air Arms: S400-SL Carbine FAC
Beeman: RS2 Silver Kodiak,
Benjamin: 312, 342, 392P, 392PA, Maximus
Crosman: Genesis NP .22, Quest 1000X, Raven, 2nd & 3rd var 160's
Feinwerkbau: FWB 300S
Gamo: Recon
SAG: AR2078-B, QB58
Sheridan: C Blue Streak, C9 Blue Streak, Model F Co2
Weihrauch: HW98
Xisico: XS60C .22, Sentry 702-3 .22
Holy cow I don't have near that many airguns. Here is what I do have.....Gamo 1250 Hunter made in England(58 lbs. cocking effort), Sheridan 2260 mb with a boss valve, power adjuster, marauder trigger and some ss. bling, Benjamin .25 marauder that's super accurate and quite powerful, 1377 2nd phase and my latest a 2240 with a boss valve, Alchemy breech and a red dot(super sear on it's way) and I'm not done with it yet. That's it.
I always wanted to compare a Sheridan 2260MB to my 160 VAR III.
Just to see how we have di progressed though the years.
Well I had a Crosman pellgun 180 that I recently gave to my youngest son(he was drooling over it) and I got the 2260 because it seemed so similar to the 180. If I knew what I know now I would have made that 180 like brand new again and a little hotter(because I now know how to) and bought him the 2260. Oh well it's still in the family and I'm sure it will go to his son one day. Bty I bought that 180 when I was 16 years old for $16.00!
It will take a good deal of money to make a 2260 as nice as a 180 - mostly Mrod Gen 1 trigger and steel breech. Still will not have the feature I most like; unit construction of breech and barrel.
Well, it is a 2260mb so it came with a metal breech and then I put in a gen2 marauder trigger group in it also.
Quote from: Jimbo on February 04, 2019, 05:50:13 PM
Well, it is a 2260mb so it came with a metal breech and then I put in a gen2 marauder trigger group in it also.
There are a couple of different models of 2260. The "Sheridan" has a metal breech and the "Heritage" on the Crosman website does not. There were CCS 2260's about 2 years ago, I cannot recall if the steel breech was standard or optional on those.
It is a Sheridan2260mb it is not the heritage. I got it from Pyramid Air about a year ago.
The "MB" on 2260MB stands for Metal Breech... and is the higher end 2260.
The thing that I really like about the 2240 is the fact that a person can order a Prod trigger group from Crosman and bolt it right on the 2240. I've been meaning to do that myself but I've just never gotten around to ordering one from Crosman, I have a couple I've converted to HPA that would benefit greatly from the upgrade.
Well I put the super sear in and I put in a stock 2260 hammer spring in with a hammer spring guide (just to see what the difference might be) and when I cock it with the safety on everything works just fine but if I cock it with safety off it won't cock. So I really stretched out the trigger spring and now it will cock off of safety but barely and it won't pass the bump test. What do I need to do? I know you should cock it with safety on but before it didn't matter.
Quote from: Jimbo on February 10, 2019, 12:54:48 AM
Well I put the super sear in and I put in a stock 2260 hammer spring in with a hammer spring guide (just to see what the difference might be) and when I cock it with the safety on everything works just fine but if I cock it with safety off it won't cock. So I really stretched out the trigger spring and now it will cock off of safety but barely and it won't pass the bump test. What do I need to do? I know you should cock it with safety on but before it didn't matter.
Sounds like the trigger spring isn't able to put enough upward force on the sear to make it engage. I'm wondering if the 2260 hammer spring with the hammer spring guide isn't compounding the issue. ("You wanted to see what the difference might be" well, difference might be that it doesn't work :o) I'd put the 2240 hammer spring back in (sans the spring guide) and recheck to function. If that doesn't fix it, put the stock 2240 trigger spring back in and check again. I don't think that the super sear is the issue but I suppose it could be. I hope it didn't cost much as I'm having a hard time seeing how it does much other than hold the spring with that little tab ??? IMHO, if you are going to use a weaker trigger spring to lessen the trigger pull, you have to use some sort of guide to ensure linear force and minimize the lateral displacement of the weaker spring. Just sayin' :).
Flex
2240 and 2260 use the same hammer spring
Quote from: ped on February 11, 2019, 10:04:34 PM
2240 and 2260 use the same hammer spring
Then I guess it's not the spring ;), maybe the spring guide?
Assuming it worked prior to the super sear, put the stock sear in without changing any other part. If it works the problem is the interface between the super sear and the hammer. I use very light trigger/sear springs without and issue. I have had issues of hammer springs at or near coil binding when a spring guide is in use - if so shorten the hammer spring by one coil. Also ensure the end cap machine screws are no intruding into the gas tube.
Well thanks guys for all that input that is exactly what I was looking for. I've got my work cut out for me now and I'll try all these ideas and see what happens. Man I love this forum!
I put a new 10" barrel on it today and while I was at it I took out the hammer spring guide, so far so good.
I'm still having issues, I thought by taking the hammer spring guide out I fixed it but no. If I compress the sear spring too much I can't cock it if I stretch it pretty good back out it works but not always off of safety. For some reason when I cock it off of safety all is well but I still have a hard trigger pull even with the super sear in. When I cock it off of safety sometimes it doesn't cock and I have to pull the bolt back again. I did the polishing to the original sear and trigger like that video showed and tomorrow I'm gonna take out the super sear and put back in the stock stuff. I thought that the super sear was really gonna be great but not so far. It probably is I just gotta figure everything out.
From what I have read the Super Sear works best, and possibly only, with a full strength OEM trigger/sear spring.
Until the 1701 frame came along I found the lighter spring With a guide worked best.
Now, the 1701 grip frame is just a bit more work to install and about 15 to 20 bucks more than the sear or trigger replacements but, it is so much better than any other trigger mod out there that is really worth twice the price.
Once you have shot a 22xx with the 1701 type grip frame/trigger you will want all your guns to be fitted with one. (Just my opinion but, I'll stick by it.)
agree with Bill 1701 frame every time the super sear is poor in comparison and I'd go with a polished std sear and a light spring kit over a super sear anyday
I guess I'll start saving up for one then.
Quote from: Jimbo on February 25, 2019, 02:24:20 PM
I guess I'll start saving up for one then.
You won't have to save too much. Mine cost $37 last month. But don't forget to factor in about $20 for a compatible hammer.
Quote from: BillK on February 25, 2019, 04:48:28 AM
From what I have read the Super Sear works best, and possibly only, with a full strength OEM trigger/sear spring.
Until the 1701 frame came along I found the lighter spring With a guide worked best.
Now, the 1701 grip frame is just a bit more work to install and about 15 to 20 bucks more than the sear or trigger replacements but, it is so much better than any other trigger mod out there that is really worth twice the price.
Once you have shot a 22xx with the 1701 type grip frame/trigger you will want all your guns to be fitted with one. (Just my opinion but, I'll stick by it.)
I agree with you BiilK.
I have the 1701 on all my 22xx's, cheap and it works.
Dennis
Where did you get it for $37.00?
Quote from: Jimbo on February 25, 2019, 08:27:51 PM
Where did you get it for $37.00?
That would be at the Mother Ship - Crosman. ;)
I ordered one this morning, it was $37 + $4 for shipping. They were out of stock when I ordered.
Crosman parts order, 800-724-7486, part #2220-103 assembly, grip frame. :)
Would that be the best place to get the hammer also? I'm not gonna mess around with the jb weld thing.
I did not get the hammer there. Got mine from Mellon Air at https://mellonair.myfreesites.net/odds-ends. You need the 22xx-sized version with the notch if you've got the breech screw toward the rear of the pellet loading channel.
the jb weld mod works fine especially with the addition of superglue
I make my own hammers if I need one usually lighter
Yeah my breech screw is where the stock breech screw would be so I guess I need the notch. Couldn't you get the hammer you need from Crosman?
Quote from: Jimbo on February 26, 2019, 12:44:08 AM
Yeah my breech screw is where the stock breech screw would be so I guess I need the notch. Couldn't you get the hammer you need from Crosman?
The stock 2240 screw location is "forward" and should not need the notched hammer (unless I am confused). At least I have used solid hammers.
Crosman does have the Challenger 2009 PCP rifle "stroke adjuster assemble" (hammer), PN 2009-110, but it is $21.73. It has an adjustable striker that protrudes from the front of the hammer. I have one in my Maximus.
Charles Mellon parts are excellent, I have several .22 flow-through probe bolts, PA's, and some 13XX pump reinforcements. BUT, do not expect fast shipping - it could be weeks.
I see where Davio has the hammer that I need for $36.00 and he always discounts the price also.
Mellons site says he is caught up now. Hammers are 15 or 20 for solid or notched.
Quote from: BillK on February 26, 2019, 03:46:57 PM
Mellons site says he is caught up now. Hammers are 15 or 20 for solid or notched.
Yep, I think it took about a week, maybe 10 days from order to receipt for me. Not unreasonable.
All hail Mother Crosman!
Ok then, I am gonna order the trigger group from Crosman but I think I'm gonna order the hammer from Davio, yeah I know it's a little more money but he has really been good to me with discounts and time on the phone too(that's worth something too) Maybe I can stick that super sear in my 1377 and see how it works there. :)
Quote from: Jimbo on February 27, 2019, 01:21:10 AM
Ok then, I am gonna order the trigger group from Crosman but I think I'm gonna order the hammer from Davio, yeah I know it's a little more money but he has really been good to me with discounts and time on the phone too(that's worth something too) Maybe I can stick that super sear in my 1377 and see how it works there. :)
Good plan. Spread the love!
Ordered, now the wait begins!
New trigger and hammer are in easy peasy. Yep big difference that's for sure, you guys were right on the money. While I was at it I ordered a couple extra springs and ball bearings for the safety (just in case) wow those little suckers are $1.15 each!
Yes, but a few in hand are good insurance.
The pistol will work fine without the three safety components removed.
Not a recommendation! Consult your broker, tax advisor, airgun engineer, lawyer, doctor for advice! :D
Maybe I'm just dense but what 3 safety components?
The little spring, little ball and the round safety bar which you slide back and forth to engage/disengage the safety feature.
But why would I illuminate those?
You shouldn't eliminate ( illuminate ? ) them but you can still use your pistol without them.
Cause you have no ball and/or spring - lost in the carpet or wherever it flew off to, and want to shoot the pistol right now, and parts will not be delivered for a week.
When I put in the new trigger assembly I took that super sear and put it in my 1377. The original sear in the 1377 was green in color, I guess they used to paint them. I can notice a bigger difference with the super sear in the 1377 than I could in the 2240 ???
You can loose the tiny ball and spring but still keep the safety pin in, it just wont have the detente.
Not a big deal if you are right handed, your trigger finger lines right up to the safety and keeps it in "fire" position.
Don't ask me how I know... :-X
if you haven't lost a safety ball then you haven't completed your full right of passage in crosman tinkership
I buy from a local bearing shop(3/32") and Gary Lindop sent me a bag of the replacement springs he sells
And here I thought I was doing things wrong when working on the 2240 or the P-Rod, as I've lost a few of the safety balls.
Yeah you'd think Crosman could come up with something better then that. When I mentioned that to the guy on the phone when I was ordering he just laughed and said I know ???
I bought a package of 100 years ago. That would be $115 worth from Crosman. :)
https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Chrome-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B015RKOZ7G
Holy balls of fire! 8)
Now if I could just find one to fit my old 392P with a tang safety.... ;D
Quote from: CraigH on February 03, 2019, 04:25:37 PM
I have found this to really improve the feel. Note the re-contoured end running on the polished clevis pin spring guide.
This is a great idea, very similar to the Glock trigger bar and safety plunger. I have done the polish on the internals, spring squish and .22 casing guide for the spring . My next process will be to 'indent' the shell casing and combine it with the re-contour mod. Polish and smoothing helps a lot, but I think the re-contour will help even more. A smooth trigger pull in the 2-3 pound range is my preference. Not a fan of the superlight trigger pulls since I don't care for the unintended discharges.
Quote from: Hoosier Daddy on March 09, 2019, 01:56:40 PM
Now if I could just find one to fit my old 392P with a tang safety.... ;D
it's bigger I have some somewhere but I can pull one apart to give you the size if I can't find them
That would be great ped!