What direction does the breech sleeve and gasket face up?
Tanks
The gasket goes on top of the valve between the valve and the breech the long end up for the TP
the tp short end down into the gasket
Jim
Thx got it..
That's leading me to another problem. When the barrel is installed and lined up and screwed in, the prob bottoms out on the breech before the handle gets to the groove to be pressed down. Is there a solution to this?
Do you have the right size bolt? As in trying to use a .22 in a .177 barrel. You could try a smaller oring on the probe.
seems to be right, it seats ok out of the breech, its a little tighter on the o ring than the stock one.
so im working with a custom barrel made from 760 and a custom bolt from mellonair with a long steel crosman breech.
could anyone please post two pictures for me, i cant find any. one close up of the breech end of a crosman factory barrel and another the same with a probe seated in it, i think this would be a huge help.. thanks a ton in advance =) :-*
Hmm...
It sounds like your 760 barrel wasn't prepped right for the crosman bolt probe. The 760's bolt probe is a different shape and size.
If I'm right, your probe isn't catching on the breech...it is catching on the face of the barrel.
If you take a look at a standard 13xx or 22xx barrel loading area, you will see there is an indented groove that only goes in maybe 1/16th of an inch. If your 760 barrel wasn't prepped with that groove, it could be causing the hangup on the bolt probe.
I also could be completely wrong.
I really don't feel like taking apart the 760, but I will if you want me to compare the 760 barrel to the 22xx/13xx barrel.
Here is a quick picture of the two probes next to eachother. You can sort of see the size difference I mentioned above...
Keep in mine, the 760 probe is .177 and the other probe is .22, but still, they have different designs.
i reemed it out with a drill and got it the right depth but the tapper is wrong.. the pellets wont feed for crap. when i get them in there right the seal and shoot great... but they wont feed now =( barrel FUBR :-X
Quote from: woody67 on November 14, 2013, 05:45:48 PM
Hmm...
It sounds like your 760 barrel wasn't prepped right for the crosman bolt probe. The 760's bolt probe is a different shape and size.
If I'm right, your probe isn't catching on the breech...it is catching on the face of the barrel.
If you take a look at a standard 13xx or 22xx barrel loading area, you will see there is an indented groove that only goes in maybe 1/16th of an inch. If your 760 barrel wasn't prepped with that groove, it could be causing the hangup on the bolt probe.
I also could be completely wrong.
could i get that same top picture without the O so i can see what the tapper looks like, thx
Yes...i will re-take the picture with a light shining into it so you can see it better...give me a few mins...
you might get away with reducing the shoulder on the probe but as the pellets aren't loading it sounds like you need to increase the angle of taper at the back of the barrel
if the probes not going in you still have chance to salvage it
i use a cheap hand ream to get the taper as the barrels are quite soft but you can use a fine abrasive cone shaped dremmel bit
ped
Ok, here you go:
actually, first take a look at this: http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2013_03_17_archive.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2013_03_17_archive.html)
i think the hole is already to big to add any tapper =(
You just need to smooth at the end of where you drilled, not where the O ring seats, just past that, I bet there's a sharp edge there that is catching the pellets
Quote from: ped on November 14, 2013, 06:40:20 PM
you might get away with reducing the shoulder on the probe but as the pellets aren't loading it sounds like you need to increase the angle of taper at the back of the barrel
if the probes not going in you still have chance to salvage it
i use a cheap hand ream to get the taper as the barrels are quite soft but you can use a fine abrasive cone shaped dremmel bit
ped
what size is that hand reamer?
Quote from: rangerfredbob on November 14, 2013, 09:24:06 PM
You just need to smooth at the end of where you drilled, not where the O ring seats, just past that, I bet there's a sharp edge there that is catching the pellets
i dont think this would work because the catch point is right where the o ring sits and the barrel opens. to get a tapper where I need i would have to have a way to add material back .. ill post a pic
can you take the breech and barrel off while the c02 is still in the tube?
Yes
this is the type of reamer i'm using they're pretty soft so it will only do a couple of barrels and you do need to polish the leade a fair bit to get the marks out but it gets you in the right ball park i get the leade right before drilling the port
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAPERED-HAND-REAMER-DEBURRER-for-3mm-to-12mm-diameter-/251372020416?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a86f0a2c0#ht_1139wt_779 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAPERED-HAND-REAMER-DEBURRER-for-3mm-to-12mm-diameter-/251372020416?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item3a86f0a2c0#ht_1139wt_779)
ped
Quote from: kraaash on November 15, 2013, 02:58:34 AM
can you take the breech and barrel off while the c02 is still in the tube?
Yes but, why would you want to? Handling any device that has 800+ psi in it while it is being disassembled is a bad plan IMO.
That's true BDS, but with the way these are built the risk is pretty low if the safety is off and the hammer isn't cocked, nothing above the tube has anything to do with holding pressure... just as dangerous as handling it assembled...
Even if you cock the hammer and pull the trigger, you just get a blast of air that goes straight up. Absolutely no difference than it blasting straight out of the barrel.
People do this all the time. Ive done it with my marauders countless times while tuning and installing orings etc.
It is not unsafe to take the breech off while a co2 cartridge is in.
Might as not well not even own one based on your advise.
How do I post a pic from photobucket? I have a few more problems I'm afraid
Mm got it... So first question is about this Mellonair prob.. It seats a bit different than the stock one shown next to it, it's a bit bigger, is this as it should be? This is suppose to be for 177
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r586/Kraaash/e578acee9facd8eadcd3a22b190cc529_zpsf9f2d34d.jpg)
The other question I have is a breech problem, it doesn't sit all the way down towards the front, although it doesn't seem to have any air escape.
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r586/Kraaash/1bb59a5129e7dda6deb7a27baf465ce3_zps91054c49.jpg)
Third question.. I think my valve also from Mellonair is messed up.. I have it where it needs to be for the grip frame and screw to install and the outlet hole is off on an angle from the tube hole.. By a lot, am I going to be able to get this to work?
(http://i1173.photobucket.com/albums/r586/Kraaash/c5da974ba7a388e75211ae79254be5bc_zps3b730cc5.jpg)
I think the valve misalignment is from Crosman my 1322 valve was slightly off also. but not as bad.
Quote from: K.O. on November 20, 2013, 10:21:51 PM
I think the valve misalignment is from Crosman my 1322 valve was slightly off also. but not as bad.
The valve is a flat top I ordered from Mellon
Every valve i have ggotten from mellon has been off like that.
He told me to twist it back/unscrew it just a bit and it should line up and work perfectly..if it doesnt im sure he will send you one that works.
Can you tighten down the front screw in the breech(where the pellet gets loaded)? That should tighten down the breech. Sometimes i clamp it before tigtening. Could be that the mis alligned valve is causing the transfer port to not seat correctly, resulting in keeping the breech from tightening down correctly.
Quote from: woody67 on November 21, 2013, 03:21:55 AM
Every valve i have ggotten from mellon has been off like that.
He told me to twist it back/unscrew it just a bit and it should line up and work perfectly..if it doesnt im sure he will send you one that works.
Can you tighten down the front screw in the breech(where the pellet gets loaded)? That should tighten down the breech. Sometimes i clamp it before tigtening. Could be that the mis alligned valve is causing the transfer port to not seat correctly, resulting in keeping the breech from tightening down correctly.
Thx.. Should the mellonair prob be so much firmer to seat in? The stock one slides all the way in.
From the picture it looks like the mellon bolt has a thicker oring...that could be the reason. Maybe switch them and see if you have the same issue?
Be sure you have a super smooth interior surface in that tube, a little wet/dry 600 (wet) on a dowel followed by some Rem Oil will work, put Pellgunoil or silicone oil on the exterior o-ring. The threads on the Mellon valves are not indexed so, as Woody noted, it just needs un-tightening and a slight rotation to line up.
Quote from: woody67 on November 21, 2013, 03:21:55 AM
Every valve i have ggotten from mellon has been off like that.
He told me to twist it back/unscrew it just a bit and it should line up and work perfectly..if it doesnt im sure he will send you one that works.
Can you tighten down the front screw in the breech(where the pellet gets loaded)? That should tighten down the breech. Sometimes i clamp it before tigtening. Could be that the mis alligned valve is causing the transfer port to not seat correctly, resulting in keeping the breech from tightening down correctly.
Could one file down the transfer port a tad to get the breech to tighten up?
Maybe...i throw those things away and use poly tubing..
filing it down would work but like woody i prefer poly tube or ptfe did you fit the tp to the barrel before you tightened the barrel grubscrews up as sometimes they look aligned but are a little fraction of which stops the tp seating properly
i fit the barrel to the breech put a tp in the hole then gently twist the barrel a fraction to find the best fit then tighten the grub screws
ped