It FINALLY arrived yesterday evening. I got a chance today to gas it up and fire a few shots. Boy, does that thing shoot hard! I definitely see squirrel slaughtering potential. Also, I noticed that it isn't as loud as I expected it to be. I'm wondering if the TKO LDC will be necessary, though I'll probably still use it as a luxury since it will probably arrive tomorrow. I will probably also receive the Leapers 4x32 Crossbow scope tomorrow, so on its second day of life it will get two major upgrades.
I had a hard time making decent groups today, although I did finally get my friend's borrowed red-dot to aim in the general direction the barrel was pointing (I was cranking it the wrong way :-[ ). I only have CPHP pellets at the moment, so I will likely have to try a few before I find out what they like, and hopefully whatever that is will be affordably cheap. My little paper target was only set up at about 25ft since thats about as far as I can see the spots on the homemade targets with the 1-by red dot. I will move my targets out to 75-100 ft whenever I get the scope on it.
After I run the first powerlet out, I hope to take down the frame and polish up the trigger mechanics. Also, the bolt feels pretty sticky. I plan on getting a long-nosed bolt from somebody somewhere, but I'll look into smoothing the stock bolt up a little in the meantime.
Overall, I am impressed. It seems to be solidly built and worth every penny I paid for it. I can't wait to get home and shoot some more pellets through it!
Thanks for sharing your initial impression of the 2400KT. After a few cartridges you will have a good fell for the trigger so when you do the trigger tune, you will likely notice an improvement. Use the TKO. On the first shot you will think something is wrong with the gun, but, in reality, it will be the TKO magic taking over your gun.
When she is all dolled up, WE WANT PICTURES!
Outstanding!
The bolt will loosen up after a couple hundred pellets. Try some H&N brand wad cutters, affordable, nicely made and pretty decent accuracy.
Super !!! have fun and enjoy :-*
Pictures or it never happened!! The 2400kt is an awesome shooter. A little trigger work and switching the seer spring for a lighter one and the trigger pull drastically improves. Throw the TKO on there when you get it, sounds like a rubberband gun afterwards..
congrats!
try cleaning the breech. it might still have some residue on it from the factory
you will notice the difference when the tko is added. you will be checking to see if you put a cart in after you pull the trigger ;D
some barrels can be picky about which pellet its fed
definitely worth the money
now they need to add a pcp to the custom shop as well as the 1377/pc77 ;)
First thing I do with a new gun is clean the breech, bolt and barrel, amazing how much crud is in some of them. That could be some of the problem with your groups and your sticky bolt. Put a little lube on the bolt when reinstalling. When you install the TKO, if your groups get worse, turn it 1/4 turn and check again. I had to do that with one of mine.
It's been said before but some barrels are finicky about pellets so buy more and pick different ones.Congrats and good luck. :-* :-* :-*
Quote from: DaveB50 on July 12, 2013, 05:16:27 AM
First thing I do with a new gun is clean the breech, bolt and barrel, amazing how much crud is in some of them. That could be some of the problem with your groups and your sticky bolt. Put a little lube on the bolt when reinstalling. When you install the TKO, if your groups get worse, turn it 1/4 turn and check again. I had to do that with one of mine.
I took the grip frame apart yesterday and tried to clean up the trigger pull. The sear was AWFUL. I wish I'd taken some pictures. It looked like it lost its way to the parts washer. Dirty, greasy, rusty. Not clean grease, either. I also cut about a loop and a half off the sear spring. Where the sear contacted the spring, it was only contacting one side of the spring, so it was really gritty and scratchy. I wound up pinching the end of the spring to close it up a little so that the sear would contact the entire spring instead of just one side. I cleaned it all up and put it back together and the trigger pull was very much improved.
I was a little disappointed at what I found in the grip frame, but I guess Crosman expects that we'll take it apart and tweak things. Looks like the breech and barrel are next.
Here's a couple pics. (It DID happen. :P )
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-11%2017.19.31.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-11%2017.21.44.jpg)
I did the same as suggested on mine (.22)...Clean BBl & breech. Clean and polish up sear and trigger contact surfaces. Lighter sear spring and guide. Polish hammer. Replace the breech screw. Long probe bolt. Then added some goodies :-*
Quote from: AS13 on July 12, 2013, 01:23:29 PM
I did the same as suggested on mine (.22)...Clean BBl & breech. Clean and polish up sear and trigger contact surfaces. Lighter sear spring and guide. Polish hammer. Replace the breech screw. Long probe bolt. Then added some goodies :-*
Looks nice, how about a side view ?
Quote from: KevinP on July 12, 2013, 01:47:24 PM
Looks nice, how about a side view ?
Yeah, what he said! :D
Quote from: Chadtheguru on July 12, 2013, 12:27:37 PM
Here's a couple pics. (It DID happen. :P )
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-11%2017.19.31.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-11%2017.21.44.jpg)
Looks good man!! I love my 2400kt. As stated I'd polish ALL the internals. Hammer,seer, contact point on trigger to seer. The black stock and forearm have a tactical look to it, I opted for the camo version.
Another thing is the stock. The stock is a little floppy. Well, not bad, but it shifts pretty easily up and down. I'm going to have to shim it up with something, probably milk-jug plastic. I made a few milk-jug washers to shim up the SLOPPY FLOPPY sear and it worked pretty good.
I shimmed mine with a small piece of rubber I had around the house and it worked great. You may have to use 2-3 pieces of milk jug down there, but it should work well. Contact Chongman and see if he has any Delrin shims for your trigger and seer. He has them trimmed down to fit perfectly and take all the side to side wiggle out. Keep us updated as you go along!!
Quote from: Baltim0re28 on July 12, 2013, 02:55:17 PM
I shimmed mine with a small piece of rubber I had around the house and it worked great. You may have to use 2-3 pieces of milk jug down there, but it should work well. Contact Chongman and see if he has any Delrin shims for your trigger and seer. He has them trimmed down to fit perfectly and take all the side to side wiggle out. Keep us updated as you go along!!
Yup, three pieces. Right on. :-*
Just use the 1/4" wide adhesive back door insulation (foam) on the backstrap and bottom of the frame.
If you want a more permannet fix, drill and tap the bottom of the frame for a 6-32 screw (align and drill through the stock and frame when mounted). Then counter sink the stock for a bevel head socket screw about 1/2" long, done, prob fixed.
Ok...
Problem with posting pics today...Too small ??? ???
try again...
Looking awesome !!! :-*
Quote from: AS13 on July 12, 2013, 06:51:57 PM
try again...
Gorgeous. Did you paint the stock & forearm?
Used Rustoleum camo tan. Wasn't sure If I'd keep it so I didn't clear coat. I need to touch it up and then use a matte clear topcoat.
Quote from: AS13 on July 12, 2013, 07:50:19 PM
Used Rustoleum camo tan. Wasn't sure If I'd keep it so I didn't clear coat. I need to touch it up and then use a matte clear topcoat.
Looks good as is ... :-*
Quote from: Chadtheguru on July 11, 2013, 07:37:59 PM
I will probably also receive the Leapers 4x32 Crossbow scope tomorrow...
Lookie! My $17 scope and rings. Thanks, Mr. Optics Planet Pricing Mistake guy! :-*
This thing is spectacular! I can't keep my hands off it. I can't wait to get it installed!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2002-12-08%2012.00.00-128.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2002-12-08%2012.00.00-130.jpg)
Nice accessories you got there. :-*
Mounted pics! :D :D :D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-14%2018.10.01.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-14%2018.11.06.jpg)
Now without the lens covers:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-14%2018.12.33.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3134286/CAPOF/2013-07-14%2018.12.55.jpg)
The scope looks good. How do you like it? Guess for 17 bucks it is one heck of a deal.
So I gassed it up after I mounted the scope and ran into some problems. I heard a little leak that went away after a few seconds and I couldn't really get good consistent groups. I looked back at the Exploded Diagram and realized I had installed the transfer port gasket on the wrong side of the little silver thing when I stripped it all down to polish the internals. So that was one thing. The other thing I noticed is that the CO2 carts are barely being pierced. I think the hole is small enough for the valve to take a minute or two to fully pressurize. Why would that be happening? And does that mean that my velocity is likely suffering from the valve not opening up enough?
So today I took it back down and fixed the transfer port gasket. I also cut a slot into the top of the troublesome little breech screw so that I can take it on and off with a flat screwdriver until a proper replacement arrives. I'm not sure what to do about the CO2 problem. I'll be ordering a stiffer hammer spring from Crosman someday soon, maybe that'll do it.
I got everything back together, ready for another paper punching session and RAIN! The rest of the evening. :( Maybe tomorrow, and maybe since I fixed the transfer port it'll behave for me this time.
Quote from: bgmcgee on July 15, 2013, 01:34:05 AM
The scope looks good. How do you like it? Guess for 17 bucks it is one heck of a deal.
I absolutely love it! I can't stop playing with it. The only thing is that I wish I could mount it a little further back since I have to lean up a little past natural to get the eye relief to clear up. However, that's a very small complaint.
Also, I think some of the difficulty in getting groups was due to my lack of technique and experience. I expect once I get everything else fixed that will improve with time.
Two things to try to help you with the cart not getting peirced as well as it should.
#1. Back your trigger over travel screw out a little more. That is the little grub screw with the brass end on it. It is on the grip frame beneath the trigger. Yours looks to be out far enough but not sure.
#2 Make sure you are cocking the bolt before you load the cart into the gun.
Let me know if this helps.
That scope looks fantastic :-*
Chad your gun has come a long way and a very nice looker. I'm liking the all black tactical look too. I had the same problem with a 2240 and to my surprise the front sights hole was a bit to small after drilling it out the gun shot fine but i think this was a rare case.
Mike
On the piercing problem did you adjust the trigger stop screw in? If you did it might be to tight causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down. Another thing is I would change the scope rings to have the levers on the same side the way they are could cause your scope windage to be way off now. You could also look into some offset rings or mounts. I have a bkl offset mount on my 1377 because I have a pistol scope and with the wire stock on I needed it to be farther from my eye but it will work either way.
Quote from: Baltim0re28 on July 15, 2013, 02:06:21 AM
#1. Back your trigger over travel screw out a little more. That is the little grub screw with the brass end on it. It is on the grip frame beneath the trigger. Yours looks to be out far enough but not sure.
Quote from: bgmcgee on July 15, 2013, 02:34:52 AM
On the piercing problem did you adjust the trigger stop screw in? If you did it might be to tight causing sear drag which will slow the hammer down.
This would have never crossed my mind but it makes perfect sense. I do have it set barely past firing. I will definitely back it down to make sure the sear clears the hammer. Thanks!
Quote from: bgmcgee on July 15, 2013, 02:34:52 AM
Another thing is I would change the scope rings to have the levers on the same side the way they are could cause your scope windage to be way off now.
A friend suggested I put the levers on opposite sides to "balance" the airgun. I have been thinking about moving them both to the left side. Can you please clarify how it could mess up the windage?
Depending how they clamp but most only one side moves when you clamp them down. If so then you are moving both ends of the scope in different directions if you understand what I am trying to say.It isn't much but could be enough to run out of adjustment in the scope. There is a good video on pyramid air site explaining this.
http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181 (http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181)
Hope this helps.
Quote from: bgmcgee on July 15, 2013, 03:25:43 AM
Depending how they clamp but most only one side moves when you clamp them down. If so then you are moving both ends of the scope in different directions if you understand what I am trying to say.It isn't much but could be enough to run out of adjustment in the scope. There is a good video on pyramid air site explaining this.
http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181 (http://www.pyramydair.com/video-details/181)
Hope this helps.
Aha! Makes perfect sense. Thanks a lot, I'll definitely be fixing that. :)
What kind of offset did you use? I did a quick search and didn't really find exactly what I would like. I would like to use the rings that came with the scope, so I guess I would be looking for just a weaver to weaver. I can use the Leapers adapters on the dovetail.
This is the one I have. The bkl mounts are pricy but they work well.
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919 (http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919)
Looking good Chad :-*
Looks great :-*. Love the scope!
Chad,
Some of us have cut the shoulder stock down an inch or two to help with the eye relief. Crosman has the length of pull a little long on these stocks. Industry standard is 13.5" and that is what you will find on most guns. These are 16". An offset scope mount will help with the eye-relief but I have had a broken right collar-bone and I preferred to mod the stock to get the LOP shorter.
I cut two inches out of mine just ahead of the butt plate, aligned the pieces, drilled two pilot holes for 2" deck screws, countersunk the holes, installed the screws, and when I was satisfied with the job, I put some gel-type super-glue between the parts just before I tightened the screws down for the last time.
I have the scope straddle of the loading port and I like the looks of it too. My scope is the Leapers BugBuster 4X32 Compact.
Cheers,
Quote from: bgmcgee on July 15, 2013, 06:10:17 AM
This is the one I have. The bkl mounts are pricy but they work well.
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919 (http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_14mm_Dovetail_4_Long_Matte_Black/2919)
Should be this one not the 14mm version..
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_4_Long_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_Matte_Black/2885 (http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_4_Long_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_Matte_Black/2885)
.or this one..
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_3_Long_Matte_Black/2883.. (http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/BKL_1_Pc_Mount_1_Rings_3_8_or_11mm_Dovetail_3_Long_Matte_Black/2883..)
For scope rings I use BKLs only they are worth it..Each set that came w/ all my UTG/Leapers scopes are just in the box..I inspected each set by mounting/pairing them on the rail and all of them are not in perfect alignment..Imo not worth mounting and besides it might stress the scopes' tubes..The same cannot be said of BKLs I have 5. I have yet to try UK made Sportsmatch..Was about to get 1 but 1 of my nephews forgot my order while he was in Canada..Regards.
http://www.dlairgun.com/Mounts/Sports-Match/009_OP43C_Falcon.html (http://www.dlairgun.com/Mounts/Sports-Match/009_OP43C_Falcon.html)
Quote from: JEBert on July 15, 2013, 02:16:00 PM
Chad,
Some of us have cut the shoulder stock down an inch or two to help with the eye relief. Crosman has the length of pull a little long on these stocks. Industry standard is 13.5" and that is what you will find on most guns. These are 16". An offset scope mount will help with the eye-relief but I have had a broken right collar-bone and I preferred to mod the stock to get the LOP shorter.
I cut two inches out of mine just ahead of the butt plate, aligned the pieces, drilled two pilot holes for 2" deck screws, countersunk the holes, installed the screws, and when I was satisfied with the job, I put some gel-type super-glue between the parts just before I tightened the screws down for the last time.
I have the scope straddle of the loading port and I like the looks of it too. My scope is the Leapers BugBuster 4X32 Compact.
Cheers,
Man, that looks great! The stock does feel a little long, that's one of the first things I noticed. I am not a tall man. :)
Also, that would help if and when I get my daughter shooting.
What did you cut with? hacksaw?
QuoteWhat did you cut with? hacksaw?
Just a regular handsaw for wood will work but to do a good job, put it in a miter box or use a miter saw. I used an electric miter saw set at 0 degrees and put the comb (top) of the stock against the fence to get 90 degrees and it worked very well. The first cut was made just clear of the inside of the butt and the second one after sliding the stock two inches minus the width of the saw kerf.
Be careful when aligning the pieces for drilling. You don't have to worry about breaking anything but you want it near perfectly aligned when you drill the holes because that determines how aligned the parts are when you are finished. Align, drill, and install the screw on the heel (top-rear corner of the stock) first and then the toe (bottom-rear). To get the toe to align, you will have to flex the lower arm a little. It flexes easily enough but you will see how tough these stocks are.
I didn't realize that the lower arm gets a little thicker than the toe as you go forward and when I aligned the one side and installed the screw, the other side needed sanding down to get it flush. I haven't decided whether to sand the whole thing down or try to put some texture on where I sanded. It's been over a year and I have stopped worrying about it.
Cheers,
Quote from: JEBert on July 15, 2013, 09:31:28 PM
Just a regular handsaw for wood will work but to do a good job, put it in a miter box or use a miter saw. I used an electric miter saw set at 0 degrees and put the comb (top) of the stock against the fence to get 90 degrees and it worked very well. The first cut was made just clear of the inside of the butt and the second one after sliding the stock two inches minus the width of the saw kerf.
Be careful when aligning the pieces for drilling. You don't have to worry about breaking anything but you want it near perfectly aligned when you drill the holes because that determines how aligned the parts are when you are finished. Align, drill, and install the screw on the heel (top-rear corner of the stock) first and then the toe (bottom-rear). To get the toe to align, you will have to flex the lower arm a little. It flexes easily enough but you will see how tough these stocks are.
I didn't realize that the lower arm gets a little thicker than the toe as you go forward and when I aligned the one side and installed the screw, the other side needed sanding down to get it flush. I haven't decided whether to sand the whole thing down or try to put some texture on where I sanded. It's been over a year and I have stopped worrying about it.
Cheers,
Nice .... thanks for the info .... :-*
Quote from: JEBert on July 15, 2013, 09:31:28 PM
Just a regular handsaw for wood will work but to do a good job, put it in a miter box or use a miter saw. I used an electric miter saw set at 0 degrees and put the comb (top) of the stock against the fence to get 90 degrees and it worked very well. The first cut was made just clear of the inside of the butt and the second one after sliding the stock two inches minus the width of the saw kerf.
Be careful when aligning the pieces for drilling. You don't have to worry about breaking anything but you want it near perfectly aligned when you drill the holes because that determines how aligned the parts are when you are finished. Align, drill, and install the screw on the heel (top-rear corner of the stock) first and then the toe (bottom-rear). To get the toe to align, you will have to flex the lower arm a little. It flexes easily enough but you will see how tough these stocks are.
I didn't realize that the lower arm gets a little thicker than the toe as you go forward and when I aligned the one side and installed the screw, the other side needed sanding down to get it flush. I haven't decided whether to sand the whole thing down or try to put some texture on where I sanded. It's been over a year and I have stopped worrying about it.
Cheers,
You might be able to fix the sanded look by sandblasting it to remove the straight lines from sanding, then hit it with a torch very quickly, just enough to melt the surface to give it a gloss appearance, but not enough to make the plastic bubble. It's an old trick car stereo installers use to hide scratches in plastic interior panels. ;)
I have two small sections of the stock that I cut out to test it on but it will have to wait until after the Gauntlet II gun. Been working way too much and not getting to play enough.
Cheers,
I finally got to shoot a little today and FINALLY started getting acceptable groups. The good news is that it isn't my gun, its my technique. My dad-in-law and I put probably 60 pellets through it at about 30 feet.
When I finally stopped playing around and concentrated on good technique, clear eye-relief, good and consistent cheek plant, I got a couple good groups. I did a group of five with two strays within an inch and a half of the bull and the other three in the same hole. I was thrilled!
I think I'm gonna like this hobby. :-\
Quote from: Chadtheguru on July 17, 2013, 04:25:31 AM
When I finally stopped playing around and concentrated on good technique, clear eye-relief, good and consistent cheek plant, I got a couple good groups.
You had a good day it seems. Folks think that benchrest shooting is easy, but you really do have to have excellent technique to produce excellent groupings. When resting the gun, concentrate on good trigger technique.
I find that to be true myself.
Quote from: breakfastchef on July 17, 2013, 05:03:15 AM
You had a good day it seems. Folks think that benchrest shooting is easy, but you really do have to have excellent technique to produce excellent groupings. When resting the gun, concentrate on good trigger technique.
Yup. And practice, practice, practice. That's the fun part. :)