I bought a pump master 760 from wally world (wal-mart) just cause it was on sale, and was surprised at all the parts that can go in a 1377. The valve if you can make a screw hole pump arm and I think it's called a barrel band and if you have alot of free time even the barrel
finding new toys on sale is always a good thing!!! parts interchangeability is better!!! changing a 13xx barrel for that of an un-rifled 760 barrel?!?! ??? what would be the point?
Quote from: recklessridr on August 07, 2011, 09:31:15 AM
finding new toys on sale is always a good thing!!! parts interchangeability is better!!! changing a 13xx barrel for that of an un-rifled 760 barrel?!?! ??? what would be the point?
Some 760 barrels are rifled im not sure if the new 760 are. :-*
Mike
QuoteI bought a pump master 760 from wally world (wal-mart) just cause it was on sale, and was surprised at all the parts that can go in a 1377. The valve if you can make a screw hole pump arm and I think it's called a barrel band and if you have alot of free time even the barrel
WallMart had them on sale at the first of the year and I bought one thinking about all of the parts that looked the same. I was especially thinking of a barrel chance because it said it was an air rifle on the box. Got it home and unpacked it and it is only an airgun with a smooth barrel. I took it back.
Cheers,
Jerry
I think you have to go a ways back in time to find a 760 with a rifled barrel. I always thought about customizing a rifled barrel for my PM66. Flat-top it, a little valve work and maybe even get someone to make me a nice wood stock. I have the steel receiver to replace the plastic one already. I figure this may be a great retirement project for me!
Ok, just let me know when you want the stock made lol. j/k I have thought about doing the same.. Wonder what kind of velocities you'd be pushing with a fully modded 760 with ft piston/valve etc etc... I also want to make wood for my daisy 880 lol, but it seems like a waste of effort being that the reciever is plastic.
After finding out that the 760 barrel was not rifled, I thought about modding it with a flat top setup and rifled barrel but I don't think it would be much different than the 1377 except for the plastic reciever and plastic stock. I suppose if the screw holes are close enough, you could put a 1377 or 1740 grip frame on it and then it would be exactly like a 1377. I have two of those already. Now, if it has a longer tube, longer pump stroke, and the screw holes line up, I would consider "stroking" one of my 1377's.
It would be nice to have a wooden and steel 760.
Cheers,
Jerry
Is that possible, lol now i'm curious about this... would a cros. gripframe bolt up to one of these tubes? or could it be modified to? I know a place that has these on sale for 29.99 which is actually not a "deal" per' say, but it is the same price as pyramydair minus shipping lol
J.Austin
Quote from: Joshua A on August 08, 2011, 10:50:50 PM
Is that possible, lol now i'm curious about this... would a cros. gripframe bolt up to one of these tubes? or could it be modified to? I know a place that has these on sale for 29.99 which is actually not a "deal" per' say, but it is the same price as pyramydair minus shipping lol
J.Austin
The 760 doesnt have the screw holes and that's the only difference I see
No screw holes? How does the trigger frame attach?
From looking at the trigger frame, I thought it might attach in a similar fashion.
Can you get us some pics of the trigger mechanism?
Cheers,
Jerry
Thig gun the trigger etc is held by the housing that wraps around the tube. So any grip frame stuff you would have to drill out yourself. The valve looks to be retained just by the tube indent. VS the 1377 which has at least the grip frame screw going into it.
all the long tube 1377s I seen are 1400 or 2200/2100 tubes. I think the creators are on this board. 1377x comes to mind.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/kjs35/1377_2200tube005.jpg)
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1176754271/My+1377-2200 (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1176754271/My+1377-2200)
post.
some google
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1280354035/Has+anyone+built+a+1322+using+a+760+or+2100+or+some+other+pump+arm+and+tube- (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1280354035/Has+anyone+built+a+1322+using+a+760+or+2100+or+some+other+pump+arm+and+tube-)
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1163451330/Can+I+put+a+crosman+2100+value+into+a+1377-+Tks%2C (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/thread/1163451330/Can+I+put+a+crosman+2100+value+into+a+1377-+Tks%2C)
All seems to require milling or major alterations to the tube.
oops forgot the attachment! ugh site does not like png, so image shacked it is.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1574/c760.png (http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1574/c760.png)
(http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/1574/c760.png)
Madkoi,
Thanks. Yea, looks to be a lot of trouble for basically a 1377 pump setup. The 1400 tube looks interesting though. Might have to think on that for a while. Also, I would build a rifled 760 if I could find a metal receiver and wooden stock just don't think it would be worth the trouble with the plastic.
Arkmaker, that steel receiver does look like a project for someday
Cheers,
Jerry
Quote from: Madkoifish on August 09, 2011, 03:19:10 AM
Thig gun the trigger etc is held by the housing that wraps around the tube. So any grip frame stuff you would have to drill out yourself. The valve looks to be retained just by the tube indent. VS the 1377 which has at least the grip frame screw going into it.
all the long tube 1377s I seen are 1400 or 2200/2100 tubes. I think the creators are on this board. 1377x comes to mind.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/kjs35/1377_2200tube005.jpg)
See that is what i am wondering.. If i could build something like that, with some modifications, some spare parts i have here, and a 29.99 gun from the local sporting goods store. I think it would be totally worth it. plus I love projects like these. If i built one, I would make the barrel only as long as the tube. It would be an over-sized 1377 pistol with FT internals, and any other mods i could squeeze into it. maybe even a .25 cal set-up. Bet i could make a really nice stock for it too!
J.Austin
I think what your aiming for is this one guys "uber carbine"
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Uber-Carbine/Uber-CarbineEmail.jpg)
look for rsterne
Would be cool to see what you could do for a longer pump arm to hide up that linkage! With a custom carbine stock on etc.
http://www.getphpbb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=611&mforum=drfaf (http://www.getphpbb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=611&mforum=drfaf)
not sure how this canadian forum will link since I found green forum urls as blank.
long arse tube
(http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/262/2289uberhunterxq6.jpg)
One thing I balked at were some people who built these saying not much of a increase in fps. Not that much of a increase in piston travel (3/4") I have seen some heavily modded 1377s doing 300+ fps on single pumps though. I have considered one of these projects myself. But most of the builds refer to milling slots and stuff. Could probably bodge something with a dremel and a decent drill press. So that is a personal comfort level thing. I still might attempt this at some stage just to do it. Obviously it is doable with crosman parts. With a 760 I doubt it though. Visually I see the 760 part not working due to the hammer pin slot and associated holes a 1377 would need would have no where to be drilled. Transfer port looks WAY too far forward and the end cap is retained via some sideways hole in the tube.
I would be tempted to get brass tube and make it into what I want or SS and have someone mill the slots in. Anyhow scour those threads and google up. I know 1377X has built a few of these so he could chime in on exactly what needs to be done to which tube.
2100 tube part # 2200c009
2200 part # same as above older versions look phased out.
1400 part #140-001
this part I think requires slot machining.
760 part #760d094
http://www.crosman.com/airguns/service/manuals/crosman-rifles (http://www.crosman.com/airguns/service/manuals/crosman-rifles)
pdfs for manuals
Josh,
QuoteI would make the barrel only as long as the tube.
Ditto.
QuoteBet i could make a really nice stock for it too!
I'm sure that you could. And if you do, I want to see it!
Cheers,
Jerry
i dont know what you are aimimng for .
i did build my LS13XX from a 140/1400 tube and pump linkage.
the 140/1400 conversion is the simplest to do
the gripframe mount right up all the ports line up with a 1377 valve.breech lines up,needs a breech screw hole drilled and tapped
all you have to do is shorten the rear of the tube so you can use a 1377 end cap.i havent done that yet im using a phase1/2 modified end cap.for the barrel band i drilled out a 1400 barrel band or you need a custom made one.this one is worth the effort.i get 730fps 10 pumps cphp .22
rsterne's uber carbine is highly modified i have the plans to build one.got them from rsterne.you need a mill or the skills to do what a mill does.after asking several people if they could do the mill work for me with no takers i gave up on that project.sold the 2100 tube metal piston and pump linkage
a 760 the pump tube is the same length as the 1377.not worth the effort
heres a pic of mine its almost complete
(http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/edf73/PICT0026-2-1.jpg)
http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=3349.0 (http://www.crosman-air-pistol-owners-forum.com/board/index.php?topic=3349.0)
heres a video on youtube of the 760 internals.. i had to watch this one a lot when i was messing with mine :P
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeOLKDYnGoE#]Crosman 760 Pumpmaster assembly[/url]
i have an older model that had a brass valve. my 760 has been sitting in pieces for a while now so i sent the valve to AC and had him drill and tap a hole for the grip frame screw and put it in my 1322. the reason is because the valve has a nice sunken hole where the transfer port is and it fits some plastic refigerator tube PERFECTLY. so i had him do a poly tube mod on the valve and barrel also... it works great
im still thinking of doing some power mods to the 760 since it has a smooth barrel. i want to test my theory that you could make a survival gun out of this. the point being that with a smooth bore and if in a survival situation you might be able to use objects from your surroundings as projectiles if you dont have bb's or pellets.
so far the only mod ive done to mine is cut the barrel down right to the barrel band. i dont really know why. it just looks really cool that way :D someday ill get around to re-building it
I did the tube with out a mill. I used a drillpress, dremmel and files took my time and it worked fine. Had a bit of a problem getting the proper tap for the breech screw and had to special order it.
Quote from: Plasticman on August 11, 2011, 02:54:07 AM
I did the tube with out a mill. I used a drillpress, dremmel and files took my time and it worked fine. Had a bit of a problem getting the proper tap for the breech screw and had to special order it.
you made an uber carbine or a 140/1400 conversion??
Why do many of these have a band around the breech and tube.
Quote from: AZAG on August 11, 2011, 08:21:08 AM
Why do many of these have a band around the breech and tube.
i have the band around my gun because i didnt drill and tap a breech screw hole.i used this same set up on my disco pistol for the best possible transfer port seal.believe me the dinky breech screw could use some improvement.i dont bother with the breech screw in high powered guns,go straight to the hose clamp.
on the 2100 set up it used to mount the gripframe.if you make a hole for the front gripframe screw the tube will leak,the valve is short
so thats just an ordinary hose clamp? ive had the same idea a while ago after seeing a guy who made his own clamp with a mill that fit perfectly. i figured a hose clamp would work, just not as classy. i hate the breech screw too. ive often thought about drilling a bigger hole for it and using a bigger screw but im not sure what would happen on the inside of the tube if i did that.. have you tried it before?
It would and should wook just fine, the only problem is that a bigger screw has a bigger and thicker head... that head needs to be sitting in a countersunk seat drilled into the bottom of the breech, so that the bolt can pass over it without obstruction... thats the problem. I've thought about doing this before too, and actually tried it.. the bottom wall of most breech's arent thick enough to allow for a countersink deep enough to use a bigger screw, and still allow for unobstructed bolt movement. sucks!
J.Austin
it has been done not by me i ran across posts with pics when looking to see if anyone else did it
the hose clamp is tacky if you ask some .im not into bling just power
there is a guy in canada that used to make the band on the uber carbine.
Yeah I'm sure it can be done, but It would need to be done precisely and either the screw would need to have a low profile head on it, the breech floor would need to be thick enough to have a deep enough countersink. the You know, I talked to Roy Weid one time and he told me that one of the problems that comes up with crosman guns that are bulk filled to over 2500 psi is that that little breech screw rips out after so many shots do to the repeated massive bursts of air coming through the TP. So he said that the screw needs to be replaced with something beefier, and the barrel band needs to be pulled back so it is right in front of the breech, so I know that it can, and has been done before. You's probly have to use a countersunk style screw with the v-shaped bottom on the head, and a flat on top. this way the counter sink wouldnt have to be flat at the bottom for a panhead style screw. When it comes time for me to build a pcp pistol or carbine someday, I will be looking into this more, because I AM into bling. I'm more into power too, lol, but I am into bling as well. I bet if someone started making those bands they'd make a killing!
Quote from: millipede on August 11, 2011, 05:51:21 PM
i hate the breech screw too. ive often thought about drilling a bigger hole for it and using a bigger screw but im not sure what would happen on the inside of the tube if i did that.. have you tried it before?
You still end up with only a .060" wall thickness for the screw to hold on to. The fine threads on that little breech screw actually provide a lot of holding power. So, if you try a larger screw, you still need to use a screw with very very fine threads, otherwise you will end up with it loosening up on you. What come to mind is the screws that hold the closure on my screen door, which which is a very coarse thread sheet metal screw. I seem to be re-tightening those every 3 months or so.
Also, if you have the new breech screw location, you need to watch for the screw hitting the hammer.
Rich
Since this has drifted to the breech screw has not anyone considered metric screws? You would need to turn down the head to clear the dai and the height. but the size of the allen should still allow for enough meat to grab. The metric would be a bit bigger in dai and have a slightly tighter thread count.
Nest solution is likely one of those bands. Only issue is clearance from the pump arm unless it is a long tube build. (thinking stock 1377s)