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Crosman air pistol - General discussion / Re: Crosman 2300S custom shop trigger
« Last post by jkingrph on July 20, 2022, 03:47:44 PM »
Thanks. I have a roller trigger I bought some time ago and I welcome the info on the supersear as that might have been my next option. Perhaps just best to get out the 600 grit and polish things up, then call it finished.  Thanks for the input.  I hope to be up and running for the 5m target summer event. If not with the 2300, I’ll use another pistol in my collection.

Dave B

I went much finer than 600 grit on my supersears. I used a hard Arkansas stone, and since the surfaces/engagements are much more crude than a good trigger in a fine firearm, I hit them with some green polishing compound on a hard felt polishing wheel on a bench grinder, Polished them to a mirror finish and they are smooth.   I would think a roller trigger on even a standard Crosman sear would be an improvement.   I did also polish the hammer with the polishing wheel paying attention to the area where it is held by the sear.
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Crosman air pistol - General discussion / Re: Crosman 2300S custom shop trigger
« Last post by Rezarf on July 20, 2022, 01:59:46 AM »
Hey retatdude - put a note in the case to send the guns to rezarf when you expire. I'll pay postage and handling! :D
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I too have had better luck with painting - it seems the Crosman metals are steel that blues easily (although barrels appear  hardened, according to my machinist). I routinely use automotive primer after sanding and using steel wool, giving it as smooth a surface as possible before painting. Bluing seems uneven, although I have had excellent results with other firearms using cold blue.
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As you just said, “I took out the super sear and the safety works fine.”
That is what I said.

But I want a working safety for when the pistol goes to others when I am gone.

My wife will probably just toss it in the trash, anyway.
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Crosman air pistol - General discussion / Re: Crosman 2300S custom shop trigger
« Last post by jkingrph on July 17, 2022, 03:47:48 AM »
1701
I have the original trigger
I put the super sear in and it performed very nice but
The safety didn’t work
I took out the super sear and the safety works properly

I just plink with the 2300 so the original trigger is fine for me.
I put super sear in several. I did polish the surfaces on the sear that contact the hammer and trigger, and on a couple used the roller trigger,  I also installed metal safety pins, and all work fine.  The safety is actually a trigger block, I cannot understand why it is not working for you.
I took out the super sear and the safety works properly

I also installed the 1701p trigger in a few and it is nice because of the adjustments but you can "adjust" it to the point where it does not work.  You also have to use a non fluted hammer or fill the flute on your 22XX type with something like jb weld.
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#1- I have had success with painting. Prep is key in getting a good outcome. I were rubber gloves and clean parts to be painter with denatured alcohol. Warm the part in an oven to around 125 degrees. Hang the frame with a string or small wire and spray thin coats , letting each dry before applying the next one. May want to finish with last coat with clear sealer.
 Have you considered hydro-dipping?

#2- I have never had luck with any kind of cold bluing. For the screws I have seen sets for sale that were all stainless, I would look into that, 

#4- Pump 10 times and pull the trigger, cock again but do not pump and pull the trigger. If air was still in the valve you will here it, if not you will here the hammer striking the valve stem.
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I've finally got the new parts for my old 1322- an adjustable sear spring, a trigger shoe, a new transfer port and gasket, and a new RP valve from Alchemy Airwerks.

I've already spent waaaaayyy too much on this gun at this point, so anything further needs to be budget conscious, unless I can use supplies on another gun, for instance; bluing.

Here are some questions...

1) I've deburred and polished the aluminum grip frame - the casting seam was pretty rough, and the rear bolt boss kept rubbing blisters on the web between my thumb and forefinger.
What do I use to refinish this with? AlumaBlack? Paint?
2) I've picked up a bottle of Super Blue to re-blue the barrel, steel breech (freebie from Eric  :-* ), and pump tube, and every other steel part that needs it, like screws and trigger. Good idea or not?
3) The hole in the barrel and the hole in the steel breech don't line up correctly even though the barrel is well seated. Push it back out until it lines up? Or remove completely and fabricate a custom washer to get it lined back up?
4) The hole in the pump tube and the hole in the valve don't line up either. Is there any fix for this? I have a new valve from Alchemy, and don't know how the new hole lines up yet.
5) I got a new transfer port from Alchemy - the bottom end gets the gasket, but which is the bottom end? The long or short end?
4) I also got an adjustable sear/trigger spring- I'm told that I have to pump enough to determine at what point the valve won't dump all the air. How do I tell if there's still air in the chamber after firing? Put paper in front of the barrel the 2nd time cock and fire?

Thanks for any input.




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No.
I do not think mine is the best.
I have no opinion on any of them.
I don’t compare and I don’t reccommend.

IDNGAS!


Whatever, lol!
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No.
I do not think mine is the best.
I have no opinion on any of them.
I don’t compare and I don’t reccommend.

IDNGAS!
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WOW Frank.... a little harsh perhaps ?  ???

It's nothing  ;D

I think mine is the best, and he thinks his is, so no problem  :-*
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